:D  Joy

Boxing day,  weather broke up here and I managed about 4 hours outside,  finally decided that it was about time tiny was taken for a test drive with new engine,   so tidied out the load bay and gingerly fired up the engine  check the clutch for the nth time and selected first LOW,   and she pullup up out of the drive and into the tuning space,  managed a 3 point turn but, reverse was difficult.

3 ( well 10) point turn done it was off down the drive,  in HIGH,  1st 2nd 3rd  but no fourth, just no space....   back up  the drive and park,  again struggling to get reverse.

Looking at the selector on the gear box there is a small assembly on the right of the leaver this is the detent pin for reverse,   by cleaning this up and shortening the spring I managed to get the reverse to be selectable "easily" well easier....



Today,
     Started modifying the rear floor to allow it to fit as the gear box fouls at the selector and on the remote.

Also need to start taking photo;s again...

Progress continues

Well progress continues,  over the last month I have mamneged to order and fit the oil cooler pipes and finish of the water pipes to the radiator, block, heater etc.   Using as much of the 101 as possible, and lengths of new hose when required.

Had orginally made a a braket to hold the geat leaver but when testing I foun that this flex'd so much that I couldn;t select gears.  so back to the drawing baord.

Tonight out of 10mm plate  I made up a complete bracket to hold the 101 Orignal braket in approximately the right position to ( with a test fit) fit the engine cover.

Spent a couple more hours welding and "beefing" up the new bracket ...

Photo to follow.

Last Month of Work..

Work on 101 has been slow at times but looking back I seem to have made a fair bit of progress:

Exhaust system Complete
handbrake Linkage
Hi / Low Linkage
4x4 Linkage (version1)
Intercooler mounting
Intercooler piping started.

Handbrake 

Man this took ages to do and the solution is simple...... ahhhh. eventually worked out that the defender cable would fit off of a bracket at the back of the gear box and pull straight onto the 101 linkage, no levers or pivots required.   Just cut down the pull rod and re-thread (M6).

Hi Low

Making a bracket that mount on top transfer box and bending the lever I was able to make up a fixing for the bowlen cable that goes to the cab,

Difflock

Now this hurt my head the motion on the box is a rod that is turned from a poor lever which is pushed or pulled sideways, well I eventually came up with the idea of a Air Cylinder to push pull the lever similar to the lever in a defender, but moving the lever point pas the fulcrum 

This then took a bit of design to get the cylinder mounted in the space allowed 

Intercooler

Mounting of the "oversized" intercooler will be done in the tunnel :

This isn't squint it just the photo.... 

and the  piping  from below

More to follow 

Project Exhaust

Well the stainless system for the 8v will just not cut it, and the mickeymouse welding on the manifold is 10 times worse.

Best idea I could come up with is to cut this manifold at the crap weld and then make up a new pipe as well down pipe, space being limited I decide that instead of turning tightly down at 90 degrees I would instead come straight out over the clutch and then dip down before the gearbox mount.

Then from here into a new silencer and straight back ( over axle) and out off set to the left on NATO hitch.

cost... priced up mandrel bends and straight tube and was well over £100... not viable.

Second thought while trailing the net was to look at paddocks and try and pick a straight is exhaust system for a 300 tdi .. price £36.   This would give me bends 2 x silencers and a "nice looking" end. A length of 2" tube plus a bit I had lying about I would have just about enough.

So with the grinder and the welder I set about cutting and being the tube by either making multiple slices and welding or by compounding 2-3 20 to 30 degree angle cuts together,  as well using the bends that came in the exhaust system I had bought.

So after quite a few hours of head scratching and grinding and welding ,  exhaust is nearly complete. Can't get it full finished till I find proper bolts to hole the manifold to the turn as the bolts the previous owner has used were to long, wrong thread or plainly just shite he had had lying about in his garage, looking at the rest of the quality of his work I'm not surprised!

Again photo to follow

No pictures this weekend :(   Had a productive weekend,  got the final engine mount made, this took a good bit of time as space was really limited and several prototype need to be tacked before find suitable. Biggest problem was getting he mount in once the mount was bolted to the engine.

Move the lifiting gear out of the way and had a quick tidy up.

Moved on today to trying to sort out cables and etc, to the block, spent time re-routing all the wiring that came with the engine and trying to ascertain what wiring did what on the 101.    The wires that went to the 101 starter are all cracked so I will need to cut them back and re terminate.

Found that the 101 top has will fit straight to the 300 tdi with a little trimming

Made up a bracket for holding the throttle cable so that it fit onto the 300tdi engine mounts.

Back to the Plan

Ok had a small bit of trouble over the last day or two, converted my MIG welder to run off of Fire Extinguisher (CO2) gas but, the other night the regulator froze up and the relief valve popped.  

When I tried on Monday night to weld again I found that the relief valve hadn't reset and I was loosing gas.  So gave up.

Looking further on the net I found that the CO2 extinguishers have a tube to the bottom so they eject liquid instead of gas. So because I want gas I need to invert the extinguisher. :D

Last night - Disassembled the relief valve and cleaned and re-set it, now working again so I could start welding.

Just a quick note:   Grinding discs  - are you all aware that these have a shelf life and the Best before date is printed or stamped on the disc :

Best Before Date of a Cutting Disc

Started welding up the Drivers side engine mount for "Tiny" first of all it was tacked into position and checked to make sure that it had not moved.

As you can see from the photo above this mount is the old tdi 300 mount with out lugs for the void bush removed and a 45 Deg angle made of 10mm steel mounted so that it lines up with the 101 chassis mounts.

Once checked if was fully welded up and braced in several places.

 From the photos to the left you can seen the mount being welded up. The welding is not pretty but it has full penetration and is 100 x better than the original conversion mounts that came with the engine

Finally the mount is painted and left to dry, fitting tomorrow and then start on the next and final engine mount.

Paint Right hand engine

Making mounts

Getting the engine into place has taken quite a bit of jiggling eventually working out where to position it in relation to the propshafts..

Getting it right means that the original propshafts can be used without modifications., and this means height and position of gearbox is really critical. From experience the sweet spot seems to be that the 101 that the gearbox month on the box are about 2" forward of that on the 101 chassis.
Once engine was hanging in position the first of the gearbox month was made up this was the passenger side one.. To do this the square pattern that mount to the gar box was welded to a length of 10mm bar and drilled to fit the block mounts of the 101 gearbox.

The drivers side was similar a plate was made to fit the gearbox and then bar was used to lineup to the chassis mount.
Tomorrow I will hopefully tackle then engine mounts from what I am seeing I think I can make mounts from the old tdi engine mounts.. We'll see how we get on

(Posted from my HTC) 

New Engine into Load Bay

Moved the engine out of the garage to the side of Tiny, this was done by picking up engine with engine crane and lowering on the the old trailer and then using this to move the engine to the side of the vehicle. It became apparent that there was no way that the engine and gear box would lift into the 101 from the side, partly due to the real wheel arch and partly due to it being bloody heavy.  I also don't think the hood sticks could take the weight. 

Engine Lifted onto Loadbay

The gear box was split for the engine, and the chainfall was used to lift the engine onto the load bay, using a bit of 2" box between the roll bar and the 2nd hood sick. I have a 2"x4" post cut and this supports the 2nd hood stick against the floor.

Picture of the 2" box siting on top of the sticks and rollbar

The gear box was then lifted in the same manner onto the loadbay and the whole lot was reassembled to give a engine and gearbox.  

To the right :photo of the engine and gearbox sitting in the load bay after the clutch has been mated. But still missing the transfer box.

Transfer box getting cleaned with "Strong oven cleaner"

I spent some time also today swapping over the 1.4 Transfer box that was originally attached to the gear box with a 1.222 that I managed to barter from the local independent land rover garage. I know the 1.222 is not idea would prefer a 1.1  but it will do at the moment until the right one turns up 

Interestingly getting the engine up at working height showed some of the previous owners good bodges. The engine came from a 110 Defender that had had a 300 tdi fitted..... so lets have a look at these:

Bodged engine Mount - complete with old welding rod still visible

Re-worked turbo outlet, Bolts space with washer!

Engine Out

Simpler said than done on a 101.

The usual disconnect everything from radiator to throttle cables to Starter cables etc and lift.... up up it comes so now does it go back and out the side like the gearbox or up and out the passenger door like some others.   My answer is back and out the side like the gearbox.

Back is easy with two chain falls and a bar accoss the top of the roll cage to the first  Hood hoop.   Sideways out is harder, the engine in heavier than the gearbox and with the strops I used just tall enough for the chainfall to be right up could have done with 2 more inches.... 

Anyway now have engine sitting on the load bay,   can't quite figure how to lift it down to the ground....

V8 Transportation Device

back to the engine hoist and messing about on a gravel slope to get this down,  finally down and into the transportation device to move out of way. - Note:Need a bigger barrow with 2 front Wheels...


Need to work on a better plan for getting the Diesel in... was hoping not to have to split the Engine Gearbox as I hate re-aglining the Gearbox to the engine.... and if it is all one I can hang it and get all the mounts made easily....

LUNCHTIME - Bought some 2 Ton 1 meter loop strops and some smaller shackles....! Lesson Learnt

Gearbox to come Out

Started the day in ernest and procceded well with the removal of the proshafts, and all the wires etc that go onto the gear box, problem started to occuur when I came to remove the box.

We where did that chain go and where are the shackles.... scratching round in my garage (read tip) but no joy, found a 15 or a 20 ton shackle and 2 10ton strops...  but nothing small enough to so through the noexistant lifiting eyes on the gearbox....

Eventualy managed to use the 10ton strop to choker the gearbox and fastened this to the chain fall with the BF shackle.

Lifting, well er no, more like pulling the roof in, the ragtop poles are just too weak even with a bit of angle beefing them up.

Found 2" box section  now where is that weld on PAD EYE.......  Eventually found it and welded it on to the middle of the box section to give a stonger "Sky hook"

Lifting again,  this time gearbox pops up and out very easily, next try and lift it from the Bed down to the ground.

gearbox out and stored,  next the engine and a cup of tea....!

Well go round to doing some more work on Tiny,  Started to hook up lights inside so I can work in the evenings.  looked at disconnecting some of the gearbox auxuillaries etc.  Only a couple of hours so not to much down,

On to Internet and ordered a 1Ton Chain fall, this should help to lift out the engine and gear box using the Roll bar etc as a lifing point.

Moving 2 Tons of Steel - Part 2

Well Sunday is here,  all I have planned for 2day is to move the Ting (the 101)   6 Ft to the left, using the old zook and the winch. As the 101 engine is sick, I broke the gearleaver yesterday and the clutch cyclinder is leaking ---- Simples....!

So rig up, but drive is not wide enough so I will snatch block off the back of the Car and anchor the zook to a nearby big tree.

Well winch in and yes the Car moves closes to the 101 and the zook as I procced to winch it across the gravel... Oh dear need a plan B

Re rigging, I use a long tree stop round another tree and try again, this time success and after a few forward and backs, using the winch for prower (and gravity) I get Tiny where I want her.  Brr it cold as it's blowing through snow so off for a brew and a heat by the stove.....

Moving 2 Tons of Steel - Part 1

New engine arrive about 2 weeks ago and is tucked up nicely in the garage, the old zook is running and winch working, logs for the stove have been got and so it is ME time. 

First order of the day is to move the 101 from it's parking place to the front of the garage to allow the old engine and box to be lifted out and the new one to be fitted.

Well it starts and runs like it is on 7 cyclinder that's a start. Clutch in... Set Hi/LO to low select 1st.... CRUNCH try again, pump clutch CRUNCH, looks like clutch or clutch cylinder has a leak. Oh well into first ,jolt, and off we go......

Trying to stop and reverse, down a sligth hill,  into a parking space in a 101 with no powersteering and no clutch nearly impossible, but somehow got it roughly where I want it and broke the Gearstick linkage in the proccess.

  Decide that tommorw I would use the old zook (Suzuki SJ)  & winch to move it further over to give me more room to work.

History

"Tiny" was purchase Just over 18 Months ago and is a V8 Landrover 101 GS built in 1976 and for the first 12 months of it life with myself it ran perfectly, never over heating never failing to start.

Mid june I took "Tiny" the 100 mile round trip to work, where she stuggled, but eventully started for the run home. Points igintion was found to be the problem and points were changed out.

Late july the overdrive unit was fitted.

Then one sunny Saturday in august the "Tiny" was taken for run into Montrose where, she started to run very badly, and on the run home road speed was dropping off until there came a point where she was struggling to main a safe road speed.

Help was not that far away and the man from Green park garage gave my self and "Tiny" a Lift home.

Here were the fun started, again symptoms pointed to the points ingintion so these were changed out to new points but engine would start with little or no power, so an electronic points ignition was sourced and again same once it was set up Tiny would run but with very little power.

Getting dishartened and speaking to a friend I sourced a 300TDi diesel engine and gearbox and will proceed to change to a more reliable and economical power source. This is where the really story begins: